2004 Dominique Laurent Grands-Echézeaux Vieilles Vignes

(very old vines) Deep red-ruby. Dark raspberry fruit aroma complicated by meaty and floral nuances. High-pitched and tightly wound, with lovely inner-mouth perfume. The dark fruit and mineral flavors offer terrific intensity without any impression of weight. Sharply focused and light on its feet. This was 12.5% natural alcohol, chaptalized to 13.2%, according to Laurent.