2017 Jacques Carillon - Bienvenues Batard Montrachet Grand Cru
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Tasting notes
The 2017 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is noticeably pale in color. The bouquet offers light green apple and pear scents, and later a touch of lemon sherbet, though it lacks presence. The palate is fresh and saline on the entry, although I find it a little shrill toward the finish and not as harmonious as its peers; maybe it just needs bottle age. It doesn’t move me as much as expected, but it’s pretty and becomes more saline with aeration. Yet like Carillon's other 2017s, I feel this is beginning to close down, which is why I was parsimonious with my score. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.
Critic scores
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
The 2017 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is built on tension and mineralité on the nose, which is somewhat uncompromising, austere and yet somehow penetrating. The palate is very well balanced with a subtle hazelnut-tinged opening. Quite fumé in style, delivering immense depth and precision on the finish. Jacques Carillon has a preference for his 2017 over his 2018 Bienvenue. It’s a close call but I can understand why.
Aromas of fresh pear, white flowers, orange oil, pastry cream and toasted almonds introduce the 2017 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, a full-bodied, layered and concentrated wine that's satiny and textural, its expansive attack segueing into a deep and racy core, concluding with a saline, penetrating, and delicately musky finish. I tend to think of this cuvée from Carillon as the reference point for the appellation and the 2017 rendition certainly merits that status.