2021 Arista Winery Chardonnay (black label)

The 2021 Chardonnay Estate comes from vines planted at the Arista property in 2010-2011 by Ulises Valdez. Matured in 50% new oak, it opens with youthful scents of crème brûlée, panna cotta, candle smoke and flint, which complement a perfumed core of poached pear and quince. The light-bodied palate is dynamic and expressive, balancing rich phenolic texture and expansive honey-nut flavors with flinty mineral and shimmery acidity.

The 2021 Chardonnay Russian River Valley is an appellation wine that’s intended to over-deliver. It has every vineyard represented in the blend, which includes declassified barrels from each of the vineyard-designated wines. In the glass, it pours a bright straw/green hue and shows off a bit riper profile than those of the Ferren wines, taking on ripe aromas of wet stones, delicate baking spices, fresh peach, and lemon candies. Medium to full-bodied and approachable, with a wide drinking window, it has a lovely, rounded texture and a weightless feel. It’s long on the palate and an outstanding entry to the range. Drink 2024-2032. Located in the heart of the Russian River Valley, Arista Winery was founded in 2002 by Al and Janis McWilliams, who handed over day-to-day operations to their children, Mark and Ben, in 2012. Today, the winemaking is overseen by esteemed winemaker Matt Courtney, who spent eight years with Marcassin. Additionally, Matt makes wines under his own label, Ferren, and as of this year, Volterre, which readers will find in this report. He holds back an additional year in bottle for both wineries before release. This year, we see the return of the Pinot Noirs in the range, after the estate made the difficult decision not to produce any reds in 2020 due to the effects of the fires. In the cellar, all of the wines are barrel fermented, and fermentation is started with native yeast.

A rich and slightly oily white with lemons, lightly cooked apples and oyster shells. Briny notes. It’s full and compact with a creamy and polished phenolic texture. Brioche and pie crust come through nicely on the finish with a hint of vanilla cream. Montrachet clone. Drinkable now, but better in two or three years.