2020 Domaine Belargus Les Quarts

The 2020 Anjou Blanc Quarts is a powerful, intense style without being heavy—smoky, spiced and flinty. It has the nervousness and energy of a jittery foal, but it's got what it takes to be a stallion, possessing athleticism and muscle within its compact core. Flavor-wise, there's just-ripe plum freshly picked off the tree, alongside honey and exotic spice. Innate sinew draws this out on the long finish. If I were an Amazon algorithm, I'd say, “If you like toasty, smoky Grand Cru white Burgundy, come have a look over here.”