2001 Cullen Diana Madeline

Still very deep crimson. Nuanced, gentle nose with just masses of tertiary aroma. Quite a seam of ripe, slightly angular fruit – not as much fun on the palate as on the nose. The acidity seems a little prominent. I feel the 2009 will develop into something more complete and subtle than this. (JR)

Vanya also gave me a taste of the 2001 Diana Madeline, one of her best recent vintages of this wine. Very deep garnet black in color, it has complex, savory, meaty aromas with an undercurrent of Chinese dried plums and soy, opening-out with air to espresso, leather and tobacco. At 14% alcohol and with a full body, the rich palate gives concentrated fruit, medium-firm fine tannins, crisp acidity and a long, chewy finish. Drink it now to 2017+. An outspoken proponent of Biodynamics, Vanya Cullen converted fully in 2006 and makes a strong argument for the methods and philosophy with her wines. When I met with her, one of her first major points is that their conversion to Biodynamics appears to allow physiological ripeness to happen earlier, meaning they can harvest earlier and make slightly lighter styles. The prime examples of this are her excellent Semillon Sauvignon blends – both 2009s came in beautifully flavorsome at just 11.5% alcohol. Importer: Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; www.oldbridgecellars.com

75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. Delicately herbal and a little leafy but also slightly earthy, a little more savoury than the John Riddoch. Rich and spicy and amazing intensity of ripe but very fresh fruit. Vital and youthful still, fresh acidity, very juicy and bright. Mouthwatering length. Tannins are dense, rich and fine. (JH)