2017 Domaine Georges Roumier Echezeaux

The 2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru comprises two-and-a-quarter barrels this year, one of them new. This is more promising than the debut last year, which consisted of just one new quarter-barrel. There is more balance, the wood more assimilated: cranberry jus , briar and touches of sous-bois are all beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, a crisp bead of acidity, good focus and a silky-smooth texture. Beautiful!

There will be almost 700 bottles of the 2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru, a considerable improvement on the debut vintage in quantity—only a half barrel was produced—and in quality, as the 2016 was rather dominated by its new feuillette. Offering up aromas of wild berries, peony and orange rind, the wine is medium to full-bodied, tender and delicate, with an open-knit core of pretty fruit, juicy acids and melting tannins.