2009 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Cuvée Cathelin
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Tasting notes
Last year I gave the 2009 Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin a three-digit rating, but it was nice to be able to re-taste it since it is largely impossible to find in the marketplace. Essentially 100% fruit from Les Bessards, this cuvee is only made in vintages where it will not compromise the integrity and quality of their standard Hermitage (although there is nothing standard about it). The Cuvee Cathelin sees more oak than its sibling, enjoys 50-75 years of aging potential, and boasts over-the-top blackberry and cassis fruit notes intertwined with pen ink, spring flower, graphite and subtle vanillin characteristics. It is a brilliant wine that almost defies description given its ethereal complexity allied to massive weight, power and richness. Yet, it never comes across as heavy or overly-extracted. Forget this for another decade and you and your progeny can enjoy it over the following 50-75 years. I have had the privilege of tasting at this brilliant family-owned estate for over 30 years. During that time, I have seen first-hand the glory of a true evolution from father Gerard Chave to his son, Jean-Louis, and of course, the Chave family has been doing this since 1472. It is one of those small but world-class wine enterprises that is truly inspiring. Tasting through the different vineyards before their newest red and white Hermitages are blended is an education in the different terroirs of that famous dome of largely decomposed granite mixed with gravel and clay. Jean-Louis Chave characterized the 2011 vintage as challenging, where one had to perform draconian crop-thinning and selections in the winery. All the St.-Joseph vineyards are located on steep hillsides near the Chaves’ home village of Mauves, to as far north as St.-Jean de Muzols and Ste.-Epine as well as those once known as Clos Florentin. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900
Critic scores
Robert Parker
Josh Raynolds
More reviews and scores
Deep ruby. A heady, captivating bouquet evokes fresh red berries, candied flowers, blood orange, Asian spices and minerals, with subtle smoke and cracked pepper notes in the background. Deep in red and dark fruit flavor but light on its feet, showing penetrating, mineral-driven character and an array of floral and spice qualities. The endless finish strongly repeats the floral and mineral notes and shows amazing vivacity and clarity. Chave told me that he was "90% or 95% sure" that this cuvee would be bottled as Cathelin.
About the producer
The Chaves have been growing grapes in the Northern Rhône since 1481. Jean-Louis Chave is the 16th generation to head up the family domaine, having taken over from his father in 1992.