2003 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Cuvée Cathelin
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I’ve always loved this vintage at the Chave address, and the 2003 Hermitage Cuvée Cathelin has always delivered a singular, magical drinking experience every time I’ve been lucky enough to taste it. A cellar selection coming primarily from the Les Bessards lieu-dit and held slightly longer in barrel, there are unfortunately just over 100 cases produced, and it’s made only in top vintages. The 2003 is still ruby/purple-colored and reveals a smorgasbord of spiced meats, licorice, black truffle, blackberry, and currant fruit, with more spice and minerality emerging with time in the glass. Deep, full-bodied, opulent, and massively endowed, it nevertheless stays balanced, seamless, and oh-so-long on the palate. Drink it any time over the coming two decades.
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Jeb Dunnuck
Josh Raynolds
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Every bit as profound, yet distinctly different, the 2003 Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin is a cellar selection that comes mostly from Chave’s Les Bessards holdings and sees slightly more time in oak. More decadent in style, with ripe cassis, truffle, earth, spiced meats and licorice, it offers a singular profile on the palate with massive concentration and extract, a thick, chewy texture and incredible length. As with the straight Hermitage, it stays graceful and elegant, with no sense of weight or heat in its seamless profile. Sadly, there were only 125 cases of this elixir produced, so here’s to hoping I get to taste this singular beauty again as well! Jean Louis’ two 2003 Hermitages should be on everyone’s bucket list of wines to try at least once (preferably more) in their life. They both represent the essence of Hermitage and are as good as wine gets.
Who knows when, if ever, this will be sold, but what the hell. Inky purple. Positively explosive aromas of mulberry, creme de mure, exotic chocolate, musky herbs, pungent flowers and smoky game, with wild potpourri and resin notes. Thick, chewy and almost ridiculously sweet, with the concentration, weight and fruit intensity of a great vintage port, yet with amazing freshness and energy. The finish builds endlessly, deepening and sweetening, and displaying simply remarkable persistence and a clinging raspberry liqueur note. I think I was tasting this the next morning. "I am so happy that I was able to make this wine with my father. If he hadn't been here to watch this it would have been very sad," Jean-Louis concluded.
(this was resting in a single small stainless-steel tank, and was set for bottling in late November) Deep, bright ruby. Imploded nose exudes powerful scents of cassis, blackberry and chocolate liqueur. Then thick, supple and absolutely seamless in the mouth, with virtually no tannins apparent today. The finish is remarkably fresh for the extraordinary size and power of this Hermitage. "If this could have added anything to the Hermitage, we'd have put it in, but it couldn't," explained Jean-Louis, adding that these are the only conditions under which the family makes the special Cathelin bottling.
About the producer
The Chaves have been growing grapes in the Northern Rhône since 1481. Jean-Louis Chave is the 16th generation to head up the family domaine, having taken over from his father in 1992.