1998 Domaine Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
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Tasting notes
The ripest of the lot by quite a way. Relatively low acid – a very sunny year but average for white – cf the reds. Pierre Troisgros suggests it's a bit of a flirt. Very ripe, very dried fruits. For Jean-François something is lacking – he likes the reds so much – he volunteers that it's a bit like 2003. It is certainly weak and without structure – definitely the weakest so far (when tasting young to old) – tastes a bit dilute and flabby, though the tannins give it a bit of life and structure. Loose and full bodied but a little shapeless. A bit brutal and formless really. (JR)
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
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According to Coche, his parcel of Corton-Charlemagne was affected by neither frost nor hail. He stated that he harvested its "golden" grapes at 13% natural potential alcohol. Its pear aromas lead to a rich, broad, well-focused, light to medium-bodied character. This wine possesses good depth, attractive white fruit flavors, and a long, lemony finish. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2007. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.
Spiced apple, minerals and smoke on the nose. Dense and minerally in the mouth, with uncanny thickness for the vintage and the underlying structure of a red wine. Like the Meursault Perrieres, this should be long-lived for a '98.