2001 Silvio Grasso Barolo Bricco Luciani

The 2001 Barolo Bricco Luciani wafts from the glass with swete red cherries, crushed flowers, spices. Subtle hints of earthiness and licorice appear later, adding complexity. This is another subtle, gracious Barolo that has stood the test of time and then some. If I could only choose on Grasso Barolo it would be the Bricco Luciani. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. Grasso is one of the most overlooked producers in Piedmont. The Baroli are delicious upon release and also age beautifully, even in lesser years. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887

The deeply colored 2001 Barolo Ciabot Manzoni is very modern on the nose with suggestions of toasted oak, vanilla and underbrush, followed by layers of dark red fruit, licorice and tar. It offers more structure with broader, longer tannins and notable length.

(from lower on the same hill as the Giachini) Bright red-ruby. More dark fruits than red on the nose, with musky notes of chicory and espresso. Sweet, broad and full, with thorough ripeness if a bit less lift than the Giachini. Less noble but very ripe, with powerful fruit and a liqueur-like sweetness on the back. Finishes with terrific breadth and major tannins. This, too, needs a good five or six years of patience.