1996 Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain
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Tasting notes
Healthy dark medium red. Warm-year scents of plum, raspberry liqueur, mocha, hot rocks and gravel struck me as Graves-like. Large-scaled and velvety, with a slight edge of herbs conveying a wider range of ripeness than usual for this bottling. Perhaps still a bit youthfully disjointed but savory, very rich and chewy. Finishes with surprising acidity and substantial if slightly unrefined tannins that dust the tongue and teeth. (13% alcohol)
Critic scores
Robert Parker
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain possesses a black/blue/purple color, and a texture of unctuosity and thickness. Greatness is suggested by a wonderfully sweet mid-section, gorgeous purity, and this humongous wine's overall symmetry. It also possesses sumptuous layers of concentration, remarkably sweet tannin, low acidity, and a 40+ second finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2040. If Godzilla drank California Cabernet Sauvignon, would there be any doubt as to what choice it would be? Anyone who has regularly tasted Randy Dunn's Cabernet Sauvignons (first produced in 1979) realizes several things. They all possess the following characteristics: (1) remarkable color and richness, (2) massive personalities with huge tannic structures, (3) gorgeous purity and unreal aging potential. Last year I reported on a tasting where all of Dunn's top wines back through the 1982 vintage were served. Remarkably, they had hardly budged in development, yet they were still exceptionally rich in their pure creme de cassis, black raspberry, and blackberry fruit notes. These are obviously more than 20-25 year wines. It is not far-fetched to suggest that Randy Dunn is producing Cabernet Sauvignons that, in top vintages, will be fresh, lively, and rich in fruit at age 50. Unbelievably, Randy Dunn has barely raised his prices in the two decades he has been making wine. For those with patience, these are among the finest values in long-lived, classic Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Tel. (707) 965-3642; Fax (707) 965-3805
Saturated ruby. Very primary aromas of black fruits, minerals, mint and tar. Very concentrated, cool and bright on the palate, with sharply delineated but youthfully tough flavors of black cherry, dark berries, licorice and cinnamon. Very long, ripely tannic finish throws off notes of spicy oak and eucalyptus. This powerfully extracted wine's robust structure calls for extended bottle aging.