2018 Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli

The word "Vigna" has been added to the official name of this wine to underline work in the appellation meant to focus on single-vineyard designates. The Altesino 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Montosoli comes from a unique growing site with some of the best exposures from hillside vineyards. This wine shows a slightly dark hue with added concentration and depth. I am delighted by the bouquet that reveals dark cherry, blue flower, crushed stone and grilled herb. There is sweet toast and spice at the back. This is one of the more complete and age-worthy wines from the 2018 vintage. However, my biggest hesitation is the very high 15% alcohol content of this 13,000-bottle release.

The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli is dark and brooding with a lavender-tinged mix of crushed rocks, dusty cherry, curry leaf and hints of balsamic spice. It’s delicate with a balanced inner sweetness and smooth contours, showing vividly ripe wild blackberry, and even hints of blueberry fruit. It leaves a staining of primary concentration, like liquid violets, yet finishes only lightly structured and wonderfully perfumed. The magic of Montosoli shines through, but don’t expect the 2018 to make old bones. Production was down by 20% due to a more-severe selection of grapes in 2018.

A severe selection in the vineyard. ‘Even in bad years you always manage to get something of quality out of it. The [Montosoli] hill was predestined for growing grapes.’ Lustrous mid ruby. A concentrated, sweet, red-fruit nose with a suggestion of oak, but this only sees large oak casks. Savoury hints. Soy sauce. Same elegant constitution on the palate as the classic Brunello, but with firmer tannins and more compact, youthful fruit. I would wait two more years before approaching this. Great length and elegance and with what looks like a touch of seductive oak. (WS)