2010 Amoenus Cabernet Sauvignon

The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Amoenus is a blockbuster, full-bodied effort boasting intense, dusty, blackberry and black currant fruit, white chocolate, espresso and licorice notes. Massive for the vintage, despite some formidable tannins, the fruit quality is so brilliantly displayed and pure it is hard to resist, although it should keep for 25-30 years. There are now two Mayback cuvees. The Materium comes from a single block called the Weitz Vineyard at a 1,000 foot elevation on the eastern side of Oakville. The Amoenus comes from a Calistoga vineyard on Tubbs Lane (where Chateau Montelena is located). These wines continue to prove the exceptional efforts and quality the proprietors have achieved since I first started tasting these wines nearly a decade ago. That commitment to excellence is reflected in the fact that Maybach completely declassified both the 2011 Amoenus and Materium cuvees. www.maybachwine.com

(from vines planted in a pure bedrock vineyard in the hills west of Calistoga): Full, deep ruby. Peppery aromas of black fruits and herbs. Then broad and savory on the palate, with black cherry and riper berry flavors accented by pepper, herbs and steak rub. Plenty of big, sweet black fruit flavors but today the herbal element is a bit intrusive. Finishes with slightly chunky, building tannins.

The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Amoenus has a little more depth and raciness than the Materium, but it, too, is less exciting than is the norm. The rich, voluptuous finish compensates to some extent, but something is missing here.