2017 Philippe Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru
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The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaut Saint-Jacques 1er Cru is drinking well young. That said, I was surprised by the fruit concentration on the nose that manifested with a couple of hours of decanting, which is mandatory apropos Pierre Duroché’s wines. Fragrant redcurrant and white-tipped strawberries, rose petal and potpourri—these aromas are all delivered with fine delineation and purity. The palate likewise is denser than expected for a ‘17 Pinot Noir born in one of the Côte de Nuits’ cooler microclimates. Lithe tannins and an appealing rondeur build towards the velvety finish. This is drinking beautifully now but perhaps has more “legs” than I originally anticipated.
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Neal Martin
Neal Martin
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Moving to the Côte d’Or, my bottle of 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru from Domaine Duroché probably ought to have been poured prior to the Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Nevertheless, it has a lovely, nuanced nose, perhaps just beginning to close up, with touches of Earl Grey infusing the red fruit, quite tart on the palate, and as Pierre Duroché’s wines are wont to do, blossoming and cohering in the glass.
The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaut Saint-Jacques 1er Cru was still sporting a little reduction, but underneath lies some very pure red berry fruit. That reduction seems to dissipate with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, silky smooth, moderate depth though not as rich as the preceding vintage. Yet it does build nicely with a judicious touch of white pepper on the finish. Tasted at Domaine Duroché.
The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St-Jacques 1er Cru is tightly coiled and sulky on the nose, though I suspect this has more to do with this producer's wines just requiring air. The palate shows its true potential. Open-knit with attractive red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit, it coheres wonderfully with aeration. It’s medium-bodied and lightly spiced, delivering lithe tannins, a fine bead of acidity and a sappy, quite persistent finish. Outstanding. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.
About the producer
Domaine Duroché has, under Pierre Duroché, become one of the most sought-out and respected wine domaines in Gevrey-Chambertin. The wines are delicate and detailed, yet with old-vine intensity, a clear sense of place and style – and it’s easy to see why they’ve rapidly become so in-demand.