2023 Quinta do Noval Nacional Vintage Port
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Tasting notes
As is often the case, the 2023 Nacional is more reserved and tight compared to the classic Vintage Port and needs bottle age, although it too plays in the more elegant style of the vintage. A field blend of Touriga Francesa, Tinto Cão, Touriga Nacional, Sousão and Tinta Roriz that spent 18 months in barrel and larger chestnut casks, its saturated purple hue is followed by pure aromatics of jammy black and blue fruits, iron, leafy tobacco, chocolate, and chalky minerality. It's full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, has a rich, layered mid-palate, abundant sweet fruit, and a great finish. This balanced, elegant, sweetly fruited Nacional firms up nicely with time in the glass (I followed this bottle for multiple days), and it should hit prime time in, say, a decade, and evolve nicely over the following 30-40 years. Does it justify the serious uptick in price over the classic Vintage Port? Probably not.
Critic scores
Neal Martin, Vinous
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
The 2023 Naçional was picked a little later than planned, even though rain was forecast for two days. Harvest took place on 20 September in the morning, and the wine was matured for 18 months in 2,500-litre oak and chestnut casks. It has a very intense bouquet with black fruit, a light hint of liquorice (less so than in other vintages), camphor and a brush of peony. The palate shows exquisite balance and poise, remaining fresh with a fine bead of acidity. Elegant in style like the regular Noval, it is lightly spiced with bouquet garni, fennel and white pepper that lingers in the mouth. Very persistent, there is something audacious yet calm about this latest iteration of Naçional.
Difficult to get harvest date right in old vines, says winemaker Carlos Agrello, because not all parts of the vineyard ripen evenly. Harvested 20 September, two days later than they originally planned, with some rain in between the two dates. Made in a lagar dedicated to Nacional. RS 99 g/l, TA 4.3 g/l, pH 3.68. 140 cases of 12 produced. Black core with deep crimson rim. Super-intense black fruit. Rocky, dark and mineral. A hint of liquorice but not as marked as in some vintages. Dark chocolate, both sweet and savoury. With the mineral quality, the sweetness is diminished. The tannins are beautiful, really dry and refined. Powerful and immensely elegant. Chewy but not thick. Deep, long, goes on for ever.
Difficult to get harvest date right in old vines, says winemaker Carlos Agrello, because not all parts of the vineyard ripen evenly. Harvested 20 September, two days later than they originally planned, with some rain in between the two dates. Made in a lagar dedicated to Nacional. RS 99 g/l, TA 4.3 g/l, pH 3.68. 140 cases of 12 produced. Black core with deep crimson rim. Super-intense black fruit. Rocky, dark and mineral. A hint of liquorice but not as marked as in some vintages. Dark chocolate, both sweet and savoury. With the mineral quality, the sweetness is diminished. The tannins are beautiful, really dry and refined. Powerful and immensely elegant. Chewy but not thick. Deep, long, goes on for ever. (JH)