2006 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Intistieti

This is not an especially strong showing from the 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. There is good energy in the glass, but the aromatics are strongly volatile, while the tannins are forbidding. I have tasted the 2006 many times, but have never come across a bottle as disjointed as this one.

It’s not easy to follow the 1990 Riserva, but the 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is more than up to the challenge. Bright, translucent and beautifully focused throughout, the 2006 is all about energy and delineation. It is remarkably accessible for a young Soldera.

As you can see from my photo of the wine stains representing the various bottles poured at this historic tasting, we had initially planned to pour Gianfranco Soldera's 1990 Brunello di Montalcino. Unfortunately, I deemed the bottles we sourced unfit for presentation and I opted for the 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva as backup. Despite the much younger vintage, this wine seemed like the oldest of the bunch based on appearance alone. Sangiovese has a hard time keeping its color intact with aging and this wine underlines that point. The bouquet was intact, on the other hand, with dried fruit, cola and balsam herb. There is an evolved quality with fine dustings of mineral and licorice that add depth and personality at the back. This is a classic vintage resulting in wines that are tight and compact at the back. These qualities will help to maintain the wine's progression over the next ten years.