2016 Domaine Coche-Dury Bourgogne Blanc
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Tasting notes
The 2016 Bourgogne Blanc was served blind by Raphael Coche in order to put the 2017 in context, since much of the blend comprises of fruit sourced from the Mâconnais to make up for the shortfall after the spring frosts that year, thereby enabling the Domaine to fulfil customers’ requests and prevent any empty barrels from drying out. I must admit that at first the bouquet is simplistic and does not have the stamp of Coche-Dury upon it. It opens with aeration, offering almond shavings and light lemon thyme scents, although never quite clicks into first gear. The palate is well balanced and does not convey the depth of other recent vintages of their Bourgogne Blanc. Here one finds almond again, flanked by red apples and Clementine, demonstrating good weight in the mouth even if it misses some clarity and precision on the finish. It is simply a delicious Bourgogne Blanc rather than a profound entry-level wine destined to blow your mind.
Critic scores
Neal Martin
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Fully two-thirds of the Coche-Dury 2016 Bourgogne Chardonnay cuvée is declassified Mâcon-Villages this year, as Raphaël Coche was anxious to make up the volume that he had lost to frost, both to keep the domaine's long-time clients happy and to maintain the domaine's used barrels in good condition for the following vintage. Only two lots were deemed up to standard, one from the extreme north of the Mâconnais and the other from the south, so these were included in the blend while the others were sold in bulk. Offering up aromas of green orchard fruit, mint and almond paste, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny textured and tangy, concluding with an attractively stony finish. While the wine displays somewhat more flesh on its bones than is typical of this cuvée in a cool vintage such as 2016, it carries its producer's signature and will deliver a great deal of pleasure over the coming decade.
(there was significant frost here, as well as a lot of millerandage in the south-facing vines): Pale, bright yellow. Good lift to the aromas and flavors of citrus fruits and spices. Juicy, tactile and concentrated; a rather powerful Bourgogne blanc that displays both pliancy and cut. A fairly fleshy but restrained wine with a touch of oak and easy drinkability. Coche blended in some wine from both the southern and northern Mâconnais "because we needed to fill our barrels with good fruit."
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