1998 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
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Tasting notes
Bright yellow-gold color. Flamboyant aromas of apricot, white truffle, nut oils, toast and curry powder, plus and a whiff of game; a bit funky in a good way and neither oxidized nor reduced. Plush and velvety in the mouth, in fact almost oily, in a slightly gamey style with very ripe apricot fruit. Could use bit more lift on the end. With its blend of sweet and dry elements, this wine offers charm. Its thick, mouthfilling texture may be appreciated more by mouth tasters but it maintains just enough mineral support. Brice de la Morandière described the 3.4 pH as "like a red wine." (14% alcohol; 3.4 pH, September 23 harvest; from a year plagued by April frost, widespread outbreaks of oidium, and a scorching August heat wave)
Critic scores
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
William Kelley, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
From a vintage that gets my nod as the weakest of the decade for the whites of the Côte de Beaune, the 1998 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is showing quite well, offering up an exotic bouquet of mandarin, saffron, barley sugar, honeycomb, anise and citrus blossom. On the palate, it's full-bodied, rich and layered, with commendable purity and precision, concluding with a delicately mineral finish. There's no reason to wait.
About the producer
Domaine Leflaive is arguably Burgundy’s most famous white wine producer, setting the benchmark for top-quality Chardonnay in the Côte de Beaune and the world. The property is the largest land-owner in Puligny-Montrachet, with extensive holdings in the village and five hectares of Grand Cru vineyards