2006 Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

‘A purer style of Amarone, according to Pedron, with grapes having been dried on straw mats and without temperature or humidity control, which is the norm nowadays in the region. Fermented in tronconic oak cask by indigenous yeast and without temperature control. The alcoholic fermentation can take 40-50 days after which it is racked off in cement tanks where it stays for five to six months, followed by three years in large Slavonian oak casks. Very fine yet rich and peppery on the nose and a little dusty. Full on the palate without being overtly sweet. More substantial on the palate and more concentrated than the straight Amarone, but without being heavier. Wonderful acidity contrasting the sweet fruit. Fine, muscular tannic. Needs more time. Elegant. Endlessly long without being oppressive. Belongs on the dinner table. (WS)