2006 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Clos Windsbuhl

(just 12.5% alcohol, with 8 g/l r.s.; as in 2007, this was the last vineyard harvested, and the one with the least botrytis influence, according to Humbrecht) Bright lemon-yellow. Smoky lees, lemon and crushed stone on the nose. Quite dry and penetrating, even a bit youthfully screechy, with austere lemon and mineral notes not quite in harmony with more advanced suggestions of nuts and baked bread. This fermented for a full year before being racked and was in a very reductive state for much of that time. A difficult if intriguing wine that needs time in bottle.

Just as in 2007, Zind-Humbrecht’s 2006 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl was their last wine to be picked of its vintage, in this case October 11, and Olivier Humbrecht says the fruit was still healthy, as demonstrated by the wine’s being dry, yet with only 12.8% in alcohol. Maraschino, apricot and purple plum on the nose are tinged with the bitterness of their pits and with crushed stone – as well as laced with refreshing lemon – on a subtly silken palate. This displays an unusual sense of transparency and refreshment for the vintage, though I would still recommend it for drinking within 2-3 years. ||”After the experience of 2003,” remarks Olivier Humbrecht with an eye to his 2007s, “I’m never going to complain about having and extra gram or two of acidity.” In fact, Humbrecht considers 2007 ideal in nearly every respect, having permitted the grower the luxury of picking under optimum conditions for each grape variety and style. The fruit was completely healthy, insists Humbrecht, “you could walk through the vineyards for half an hour and fine one spoiled berry,” … except, of course, where the rot was noble! This year’s generally dry-tasting, relatively low-alcohol, high acid, high-extract Rieslings are not always the most youthfully approachable or winsome in style, but the best are profound; whereas Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer ran to extremities of potential alcohol, even though the harvest was finished before mid-October. Far fewer wines went through malo-lactic transformation here from 2007 than usual – the pHs were often so low they proved inhospitable to the necessary bacteria. As for 2006, it’s clear that this is a year to test the meddle of any grower, and it is therefore not surprising that Zind-Humbrecht was among the estates to demonstrate that excellence and even excitement were not ruled out by the weather. Furthermore, he arrived at an average 2006 yield virtually identical to that of 2005. “Of course,” asserts Humbrecht, “quality in 2006 depended on how you handle your vineyards and your vines the whole year through. It was a vintage where, if you made a mistake in the vineyards, you got slapped pretty hard at harvest time, unlike 2007 where if you made a mistake, nature was forgiving.” The completion of fermentations in 2007 was spread over even more months than usual, often with late bottling; frequently with no racking; and my notes are based both on tastings from bottle early this year (sometimes referencing the wine’s performance from cask) and in a few instances solely on tastings from cask. Two 2007 Pinot Gris “Trie Speciale” – from Clos Windsbuhl and Clos Jebsal – were not even wine yet last I visited, and will in any case not be released for at least another year. eRobertParker.com.April, 2010