1996 Domaine Christophe Roumier Charmes-Chambertin

I tasted this medium-to-dark ruby-colored wine as it was being racked. It exhibits a gorgeous nose of deeply ripe black raspberries and a voluptuous, refined, graceful, ("jovial" said Roumier), and delicious character. This seductive wine has layered red and black cherries, boysenberries, and Asian spices that are present throughout its flavor profile and supple finish. Projected maturity: 2002-2008. Roumier informed me he was planning to bottle his 1996s earlier than usual to "trap the fruit." He is of the opinion that they will not be exuberant, charming, and seductive following bottling. Virtually every vigneron agreed that the 1996s have been a delight to drink from the moment the grapes were pressed. Yet Roumier thinks they will need years to be expressive. Those 1996s that I have tasted stateside have maintained their forward, fruity character, but time will tell. Importer: Chateaux and Estates Wine Co., New York, NY; Tel; (212) 572-7725.