2011 Domaine Coche-Dury Bourgogne Aligoté

Tart and smoky nose. This lean vintage does not flatter the naturally lean Aligoté grape. There's the trademark struck match nose but not much fat on the palate. Clean and lean. The acidity is quite marked. Perhaps in a few months it will seem more forgiving. Ends quite suddenly. But there is character and a beginning, middle and end. (JR)