2012 Margaux Chateau Palmer

48% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot from a wet vintage that is drinking well now in many instances. Shaded blackish crimson. A bit cool and austere at first though a lovely perfume developed in the glass and the build is impressive. This is a wine that may inspire a new acronym: NFN (= nice for now). (JR)

The 2012 Palmer has a more backward bouquet than the 2008 Alter Ego, quite Pauillac-like in style with graphite infused black fruit. Commendable freshness and focus, though not powerful in style. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, fine acidity, silky smooth with a clean and precise finish; white pepper and tobacco linger on the aftertaste. Curiously, a second bottle at the Bordeaux Index tasting displayed a slight greenness on the aftertaste that prompts me to be cautious with my score. Perhaps that will assimilate with time? Tasted twice at Bordeaux Index's Ten Year-On tasting and blind at the Southwold Ten-Year On tasting.

The 2012 Palmer is already offering demonstrative drinking at age 10, bursting with aromas of cherries, blackberries, violets and spices, framed by a lavish application of creamy new oak. Full-bodied, ample and enveloping, it's fleshy and sensual, with a deep and layered core of fruit that's discreetly underpinned by succulent acids and sweet, powdery tannins. Concentrated, broad and persistent, this is one of the most successful wines of the vintage, as well as one of the most dramatic. Thomas Duroux is crafting more integrated, less overtly oaky wines at Palmer today, but this 2012 is nonetheless a terrific effort.