2017 Keller Riesling Von Der Fels

Zesty lime and seed-tinged apple on the nose anticipate the tart-edged, piquantly invigorating impression conveyed on a buoyant though otherwise polished palate. Suggestions of seedy green tomato and white currant add additional tangy stimulation. The long, strong finish is nearly mouth-shaking in its sense of animation, not to mention palpably chalk-suffused and consummately refreshing. I would not hesitate to cellar this as one would a top Grosses Gewächs. (Kirchspiel, Hubacker and Abtserde predominate in the blend, but due to the August hail, total volume is down by almost one-half from a normal harvest. There was so little of Keller’s less-expensive Gutsriesling that by the time I visited, he was unable to offer me a taste of it.)

von der Kreide means from the chalk and that’s exactly what you get on the nose with its chalky and flinty aromas. On the palate, a friendly citrusy tingle softens the slightly dusty expression, a subtle notion of bitter peel concludes an animating taste experience. (MS)

Tank sample. 40% of the harvest they achieved in 2016. 28-year-old vines, 25 hl/ha, RS 3 g/l. Fruit from Kirchspiel (only lightly hailed so a bigger proportion than usual – 65% – though this may change when the final wines are blended), Hubacker, AbtsE, Morstein. The sites are fermented separately so they blend later. Westhofen sites have a real herbal character this year, notes Keller. Bright in citrus but also a stony mineral aroma. Chalky citrus intensity on the palate, almost chewy. Precise and pure and really stunning for Von der Fels. The most intense vintage I have tasted. Has some wild herbal notes on the mid palate and on the nose as it opens up, as Klaus Peter had suggested. On the palate, there’s orange and orange pith and such concentration and persistence. Likely to be GV . (JH)