2017 Keller Westhofener Brunnenhäuschen Abtserde Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Seed-inflected Meyer lemon, iodine, chalk, fusel oil and struck flint feature on the nose. That same cast of characters reprises with almost painfully concentrated piquancy, brightness and medicinal-mineral saturation on a palpably extract-rich palate. Only after some aeration does a hint of site-typical florality emerge, in the form of bittersweet perfume backed by hothouse greenery. In keeping with a vintage 2017 trend at this address – but a trend accentuated in this instance – the finish is detonative in its vibrant conveyance of energy as well as striking in its impression of chalk and stone suffusion. But beyond that, it offers mouthwatering salinity and a virtually kaleidoscopic cycle of further, ineffable mineral impressions.
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
It\'s been said, perhaps a million times, that riesling has a peachy aroma. Now this wine redefines what peachy means for this grape, so beautiful is the peach aroma in the nose here. Gigantic concentration, but it remains super-bright and pure. The power at the finish is married to totally uplifting freshness. Drink or hold.