2005 JJ Prum Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese
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Tasting notes
The 2005 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese is even better than the 2015 tasted alongside. This shows some signs of maturity with subtle linseed and clementine scents on the nose, but it is the palate that is so striking. The 2005 is endowed with tremendous weight; it’s oily in texture, richer than the 2015, but with countervailing acidity that lends it balletic poise. It just lacquers the mouth and leaves you gasping for more. It’s amazing how a great Riesling seems so light on its toes yet exerts such presence. The residual sugar here is perfectly pitched, perhaps nudging up to Spätlese in sensation. This will give 25 to 30 years more drinking pleasure.
Critic scores
Neal Martin
David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
An auction cuvee of 2005 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese A.P.#21 introduces a striking florality in aroma and delicacy and refinement of fruit and mineral on the palate to what has gone before. Honeysuckle, apricot preserve, caramel apple, key lime, and pink grapefruit generously inform the custardy-rich yet refreshing palate, and the finish displays a purity of fruit, transparency to slate nuance, and wafting levity that left me laughing in delight. “We made what I think was the right decision to harvest relatively early,” says Manfred Prum, before botrytis became the most prominent element in the wines’ character as in his opinion had been the case in 1976. Still, the Prums were blessed this year with terrific quality but cursed with a dearth of material that could legitimately be bottled even as Spatlese let alone Kabinett. (Note: There is usually more than one bottling and therefore more than one eventual A.P. number chez Prum for any given Kabinett or non-auction Spatlese and even some Auslesen. The differences in character, they promise, are kept to a minimum, and indeed in many cases it is a matter of the same base wine temporarily stored in more than one tank. For that reason, I was as usual not privy to the A.P. numbers of the un-bottled, non-auction wines that I tasted.) Various importers including P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424 and Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463
About the producer
Joh. Jos. Prüm is the benchmark estate of the Middle Mosel, renowned for Rieslings of exceptional delicacy, precision, and longevity. From the legendary slopes of Wehlener Sonnenuhr to Graacher Himmelreich, their wines capture a singular balance of lightness, tension and mineral purity.