2006 Sadie Family - Shiraz/Mourvedre Columella
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Tasting notes
The 2006 Columella, like the 2005, is quite backward and saturnine on the nose at first, though after an hour it suddenly adopts a different attitude and reveals some quite high-toned glossy black fruit with light volatile/acetic notes in the background. The palate is bold and grippy, layered tarry black fruit with, again, wood tannins wanting to dictate this wine. A nice touch of black pepper on the finish, but I cannot really engage with this. Tasted at the Columella vertical in Hong Kong.
Critic scores
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
(Syrah and Mourvedre, with 5% Grenache): Deep, bright ruby. Expressive aromas of black raspberry, menthol, licorice and tree bark come across as even sweeter than those of the 2005. Offers lovely sweetness and richness but not the detail or refinement of the 2005 example. Not quite the energy either but there’s no shortage of acidity here. Finishes quite long and chewy, with notes of spicy earth and bitter chocolate.
Quite deep colour, more purple tones. An expressive nose, all high drama and swirling liquorice and cassis and molasses. Thick, almost chunky tannins – more rugby prop than gymnast. A very bold, dramatic wine with quite a meaty, Bovril core and poached plum flavours. Cloves and dried sage, thyme, linger on the finish. Certainly robust and complex and woven as richly as velvet drapes in a castle stateroom. Just perhaps not quite as vibrant and fresh as some of the other Columella vintages. (TC)
80% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre from higher altitude vineyards. Berry selecttion to ensure there are no dehydrated berries. 30% not destemmed. Four to five days cold soak. Cap broken up by feet. One pigeage a day. One month on skins. Aged in barriques for 18-24 months, though Sadie plans to reduce this to 12 months in barrique and then some time in foudres. Highly perfumed nose with time in the glass. Dry and such amazing finesse. Very finely textured like strong paper. Beautiful. Dark and subtle. Really light handed and yet long. Mineral, earthy, dry, savoury integrity. It is dense but not heavy, oak swallowed by the quality of the fruit. (JH)