2002 Domaine Coche-Dury Meursault

Less expressive on the nose than the Charmes. Reductive classic nose. Very well chiselled and bone dry and super refreshing though extremely restrained. Pure and jewelly with a hint of liquorice. Just a little heavy footed. (JR)

The 2002 Meursault Village is “singing” at 11 years of age. It has an elegant, refined bouquet with touches of flint and white truffle that is utterly sublime. The palate is fresh, feminine and effortless with that truffle note coming through once again. There is a silver bead of acidity and a long, inspiring citric fresh finish that brims over with mineralite. Heavenly! Tasted March 2013.

Extraordinary bottle opened on 7 October and extremely steely and almost austere. Kept in the fridge about a third full and re-tasted on 31 October and was almost more delicious then, having taken on weight. Bone dry. Long. Packed with minerals and stony undertow. No hurry to drink. All on the finish, still opening out. I am heartened by just how stunning a 1998 Rougeots was in the interim between these two tastings. (JR)