2006 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Cuvée de L'Oree Blanc

More tight and reserved than the open-knit Le Meal Blanc, the 2006 Ermitage Cuvee de l’Oree offers a heavenly bouquet of caramelized orchard fruits, celery seed, buttered hazelnuts, orange blossom and white flowers. Just crazy good on the palate, with full-bodied richness and a seamless, unctuous texture, it has incredible purity, precision and length, with this liquid rock-like minerality on the finish. It's just about as good as it gets, and while it's drinking great today, it should keep for 2-3 decades.

The way this wine stood up in the glass over many hours really impressed me. Initially it seemed a little bit fat and flabby but in fact it kept what nerve it had right till the end of dinner. I tried to sip it after rather than before the Montrachet, which was much drier and slightly leaner (these are relative terms). Bright gold with a lightly sulphidey nose. Strong honey and honeysuckle flavours. Low acid but great riches on the palate. Full body with Marsanne fat undertow but, just, enough energy and vitality. Very rich and a great partner for cod and sweet onions. (JR)

Deep gold. Remarkably pure peach, apricot, citrus honey and hazelnut aromas pack a huge punch, with lime and dusty minerality adding verve. Equally rich on the palate, with the pit fruit and honey qualities repeating and a whack of bitter quinine adding focus. Poses richness and weight against vivacity, finishing with superb clarity and clinging sweetness. Can't get this off the palate.