2017 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Bussia

The Giacomo Fenocchio 2017 Barolo Bussia shows a bit more grit and intensity compared to some of the other single-vineyard expressions in this portfolio. The wine reveals a pretty garnet color with medium consistency. There are aromas of wild cherry and dried raspberry, with hints of toasted almond and camphor ash. The finish is mild and moderate in intensity although you do feel the tightness of the tannins in this vintage. They make about 25,000 of these bottles per year, which is quite a bit more than your average Barolo cru.

From a 5-hectare parcel of Bussia in Monforte d’Alba, the 2017 Barolo was aged for 30 months in 30- to 50-hectoliter Slavonian oak. Floral and rounded aromas of dried apricot, roses, and licorice lift from the glass, and the palate is taught with turned mineral earth, burnt orange zest, and dried cranberry as well as tannic grip on the finish. Drink 2023-2042. Claudio Fenocchio is the fifth-generation winemaker for this estate based in Monforte d’Alba. They practice long fermentations and maceration and utilize large Slavonian oak. In the vineyard, they practice organic viticulture.

The 2017 Barolo Bussia is elegant, layered and mysterious, all of which make it incredibly appealing. Black cherry, spice, licorice, menthol, pine and espresso all open effortlessly in the glass. Deceptively light in its mid-weight structure, the 2017 delivers tons of flavor intensity and character. There is so much to like. (AG)