2017 Zind-Humbrecht Rangen de Thann, Clos St. Urbain, Riesling Grand Cru

"The increased risk of spring frost is probably the most harmful consequence of global warming in viticulture," Olivier Humbrecht summarized, recapping the 2017 vintage that was hardly hit by frost in the night of April 21 to 22. "A vine strongly affected by frost also takes a long time to recover from the shock," he added, pointing out that "the growth of latent buds only occurred in May, leaving the vines with little energy source." Heat and drought during the summer and a rather early harvest that was finished in the Rangen at the end of September made 2017 an excellent vintage with a clear and concentrated character. The very low-yielding (19 hectoliters per hectare), intensely yellow-colored 2017 Riesling Clos Saint-Urbain Rangen de Thann opens with an intense yet pure, remarkably coolish and concentrated bouquet of ripe and spicy yellow fruits intermingled with floral and herbal aromas whereas the flinty notes remain discreet this year. Full-bodied and rich yet dry and elegant on the palate, this is a pretty classical Rangen Riesling with fine but vivacious acidity, palatable tannins and a slightly dry but refreshing and gastronomic, vibrantly mineral Rangen finish. The 2017 is not a wine to shine in blind tastings, but it's definitely a Riesling for chefs and sommeliers who are probably excited to find the perfect pairing of which, I guess, there are many possibilities. The 2017 Rangen is a classic, and it's probably much better than was expected when harvested. Bottled in February 2019 with 13% alcohol and 4.2 grams per liter of residual sugar that we don't taste as "sweetness" at all. The wine tastes bone dry and will be loved whenever it is served with the right dish. Tasted in the Pfalz during the Rangen vertical in November 2023 and again at home in March 2024.