2010 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Gevrey-Chambertin

The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin emerges from the glass with a finely knit tapestry of crushed rocks, flowers, spices and dark cherries. This, too, is quite pretty, even if some of the personality and depth of the other village wines is a bit more elusive. The Gevrey is made from parcels in Bel Air, La Justice and Craite-Paille. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2025. Romain Taupenot lost between 25-40% of his 2010 production to the poor weather, although some of his lower lying parcels were down as much as 80%. Fortunately the Grand Crus were down only 15% on average. The harvest began on September 23. Taupenot reported that the fruit required some sorting in the winery. Importers: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620, Imported by Scott Paul Wines, Carlton, OR; tel. (503) 852 7300; J.A.O. Wine Imports, McLean, VA; contact@jaowineimports.com

Mid crimson. Quite gamey and expressive. Very sweet on the palate and brilliant edginess. Very pure and sweet. Slightly dry finish. (JR)

This is cooler and more restrained than its Chambolle and Morey villages counterparts with distinct notes of underbrush, humus and plenty of pungent earth on the airy wild red and dark berry fruit aromas. The attractively rich medium-bodied flavors possess an abundance of dry extract and a relatively refined mouth feel thanks to the fine-grained tannins, all wrapped in a firm and moderately austere finish. While qualitatively similar, each of the three villages wines has its own unique personality and all of them are recommended. Allen Meadows, Burghound.com