2016 Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve

The flagship is the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve, the classic blend of 60/40 Grenache and Mourvèdre brought up in demi-muids. Blackberries, currants, black cherries, scorched earth, spice, and beautiful minerality all emerge from this full-bodied beauty that shows the more seamless, elegant style of this estate beautifully. It's more backward, concentrated, and reserved than the Les Quartz release, yet has more density and concentration as well as elegance. I was able to taste this beauty twice and rated it perfect on one occasion and a mere 98 points on another. Give it 3-4 years and enjoy over the following 15-20 years. Unquestionably, some of my favorite wines in the world come from the estate of Sylvie Vacheron, who has the incredibly talented Bruno Gaspard as well as consultant Philippe Cambie at the helm in the vineyards and cellars. Located in the eastern region of the appellation, south of Beaucastel, and covering a tiny 25 acres, they produce a bevy of Côtes du Rhônes as well as a similar lineup of Châteauneuf-du-Papes. I would classify these wines as quasi-modern as the wines are mostly destemmed, and they do utilize newer demi-muids, yet these are pure, classic Southern Rhône wines that are simply loaded with character. In addition, while the style has undeniably changed to one of more elegance and finesse, these latest 2016s and 2017s pack serious oomph and power.

A 60-40 blend of Grenache and Mourvèdre from the lieux-dits of La Guigasse and Pignan, I'm happy to say the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape La Reserve has come in at the top end of my expectations for it. They produced 6,136 bottles of this elixir, which offers magical aromas of mixed berries, roses and exotic spices. It's full-bodied and weightless at the same time, boasting waves of silky, caressing, seductive tannins and an incredibly long finish. Despite its light touch, it seems assured of evolving over a couple of decades. Sheer gossamer perfection!

Full bright-rimmed ruby. Ripe red and dark berries, incense, Moroccan spices and candied flowers on the expansive, seductively perfumed nose; a smoky mineral accent adds vivacity. Sappy, alluringly sweet and penetrating on the palate, offering pure, deeply concentrated cherry, Chambord, cola and spicecake flavors that become more energetic as the wine opens up. Densely packed and seamless in texture, finishing with remarkable power, resonating spiciness and building but discreet tannins. As is the case with its Quartz stablemate, this wine is among the standouts of this exceptional vintage.