2010 Domaine Santa Duc Gigondas Grand Grenache 66
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Although it is almost impossible to find, Yves Gras’s 100% old vine Grenache, the 2010 Gigondas Grand Grenache 66 is well-worth a search of the marketplace. Aged completely in foudre, it boasts over-the-top richness, a full-bodied mouthfeel, lots of black fruits, loads of viscosity, alcohol and fruit extract and supple tannins. It, too, should drink well for 20 years. Several years ago Yves Gras purchased some hectares from Paul Jeune (the proprietor of Mont Pertuis) in the renowned La Crau sector of Chateauneuf du Pape, and his first two efforts are noteworthy. Under the negociant label called Santa Duc Selections, Gras produces some delicious white wines that merit attention from consumers. They are generally blends of Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Viognier. Yves Gras is also the winemaker for Patricia Wells, who has a home and cooking school in Vaison La Romaine, a few miles north of Gigondas. Her estate is called Clos Chanteduc. The Domaine Santa Duc produces a Cotes du Rhone called Les Quatres Terres, which is a 4,000-case blend of 70% Grenache, 25% Syrah and the rest Counoise and Mourvedre. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 239-1275
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Robert Parker
Jeb Dunnuck
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My favorite of the lineup and about as good as Gigondas (or Grenache for that matter) gets, the 2010 Domaine Santa Duc Gigondas Grand Grenache 66 is a selection of the best plots of Grenache located around the estate. Aged for 18 months in foudre, it is a quintessential Grenache that possesses extraordinary purity and complexity, as well as thrilling aromas of kirsch liqueur, blackberry, roasted meats, lavender, flowers, and garrigue that all soar from the glass. Despite the intensity here, it is never heady or over the top in any way. Full-bodied and weightless on the palate, yet with brilliant concentration, a seamless, silky texture, and fabulous underlying structure and purity, this monumental effort is approachable now due to the texture and fruit, yet will be even better in a handful of years. It will drink well for upwards of two decades.
(made from a selection of grenache that owner/winemaker Yves Gras felt were the best lots of the vintage and raised in foudres): Bright purple. Wild, intensely perfumed nose evokes red and dark berry preserves, apricot, potpourri and Indian spices. Rich and fleshy but surprisingly lithe, offering juicy raspberry and mulberry flavors and notes of candied lavender and star anise. Silky tannins add focus to the very long, sappy, spice-accented finish. These vines reportedly range from 50 to 110 years of age.