2004 Domaine Raveneau Chablis Montee de Tonnerre 1er Cru
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Tasting notes
Bright palish yellow; remarkably fresh for a 15-year-old white Burgundy. Knockout high-pitched perfume combines grapefruit, pineapple, ginger, quinine and a sexy touch of reduction (!). Wonderful precision and energy to its rather cool flavors of citrus zest, white peach, crushed rock and crushed herbs. A Chablis of modest body but not at all lean or meager. Finishes with explosive aromatic lift and outstanding mineral verve. This is still a baby and should go on for at least another 15 years. In fact, I doubt anyone would guess the age of this remarkably youthful wine, which was made from a crop level of 60 hectoliters per hectare, according to Isabelle Raveneau. She added, "Dad didn't keep much of this because it was hard and thin and acidic early." Dad made a mistake. (production was a full 60 hectoliters per hectare)
Critic scores
Pierre Rovani
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
There is nothing awkward at all about the 2004 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru, which is mind-blowingly beautiful from the moment it is served. Vibrant and bursting with life, the 2004 possesses dazzling intensity from start to finish. Tangerine oil, lemon confit, wild flowers and slate are some of the signatures, but more than anything else, the 2004 stands out for its exquisite beauty and overall harmony. A rush of floral and mineral notes leaves a long and lasting impression on the close. At fifteen years of age, the 2004 is in the sweet spot for delivering pure pleasure, but it will drink well for many years to come. What a wine!
Middle-aged wet wool nose but real vitality. Lots of alcohol and masses of acidity! Really still quite painful to taste. Hard work for the moment but promising for the long term. (JR)