1994 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage

The 1994 red Hermitage, which had been assembled, and was about to be bottled (unfiltered of course), appears to be superb. Last year it tasted like a richer sibling of the 1985. This year it tasted significantly richer, but with the 1985's softness, elegance, and precocious appeal. The wine possesses a black/ruby/purple color, an intense, smoky, cassis, and mineral-scented nose, full body, superb density, a soft attack, good grip, and a long, impressively endowed finish. It is a wine of undeniable power, spice, tannin, fruit, silk, and fat -- what else can you ask for? It should be drinkable by the year 2000 and last for 25+ years. Longtime Chave enthusiasts will be thrilled to hear that Chave's spectacular 1995s are among the greatest successes in the Rhone Valley. Furthermore, the 1994s, now that they are in bottle, are even stronger than my commentary last year suggested. Importers: Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800 and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524

Deep red-ruby. Roasted aromas of animal fur, blackcurrant, smoke and pepper. Supple, peppery and very concentrated, with lovely sweetness and pliant texture in the middle palate. Has a compellingly sapid quality. Finishes very long and sweet, with thoroughly ripe tannins. Absolutely delicious Hermitage, and showing no signs of shutting down in bottle.