2010 Domaine Trapet Latricieres-Chambertin Grand Cru

The 2010 Latricières-Chambertin reveals incredible depth and delineation in its aromas and flavors. Layers of dark cherries, plums, menthol and spices are layered into the vibrant, focused finish. This, too, represents the height of finesse in Burgundy.

(the last 2010 to finish its malo; made from a high percentage of tiny, millerande grapes, according to Trapet): Good bright red. Musky redcurrant, griotte cherry, minerals, red licorice and menthol on the deep nose and palate. Dense, sappy and deep, with terrific energy and sexy soil tones giving this grand cru a chewy, palate-staining quality. The very suave tannins currently hide the wine's firm spine, but the outstanding, slowly mounting finish suggests a slow and positive evolution in bottle. (By the way, the splendid 2009 version of this wine is at least as good.)

The 2010 Latricieres-Chambertin reveals incredible depth and delineation in its aromas and flavors. Layers of dark cherries, plums, menthol and spices are layered into the vibrant, focused finish. This, too, represents the height of finesse in Burgundy. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2040. Jean-Louis Trapet is a quiet man, but when you make wines like these, words aren’t necessary. The Trapet 2010s are striking, but like everywhere else there isn’t much to go around. Trapet did not make his Gevrey villages Ostrea and the 1er Crus Clos Prieur and Petite Chapelle because yields were so small. None of the 2010s had at the time of my visit. I also tasted a number of 2009s that have turned out as good or better than I had expected. Trapet doesn’t seem to get anywhere near the recognition the wines deserve. There may be trendier domaines out there, but few that are at this level. Various US Importers, including: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029; A Patrick Lesec Selection (various importers), Paris Fax 011 33 4 66 37 67 23