1999 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Eiswein

Cassis and honey in the nose, liberally laced with chili peppers. Thick and rich in the mouth, this nevertheless preserves the uncanny sense of lightness-in richness and the rapier cut of citrus made possible by frost. Smoked meats, black fruits and mineral salts mingle in a long, penetrating finish. 2 stars.