2012 Donelan Syrah Obsidian Vineyard
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Tasting notes
The 2012 Syrah Obsidian Vineyard could be thought of as a hypothetical blend of the 2014 and 2015, with a voluptuous, layered, concentrated style, as well as building tannin and no shortage of structure. Currants, peppery herbs, crushed violets, and ample meatiness define the bouquet, and it shows the class of this vineyard. This is another brilliant lineup of wines from the Donelan Family, with the wines made by Joe Nielson. While their estate Obsidian Vineyard was lost in the fires last year, they’re already in the process of planning and replanting the site, and I was thrilled to taste through a small retrospective from what’s unquestionably one of the great terroirs in California. Looking at the 2015s, which are by and large the current releases, these are structured, tannic wines that are going to benefit from short term cellaring.
Critic scores
The Wine Advocate
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
The 2012 Syrah Obsidian Vineyard is medium garnet colored with quite an earthy, savory nose, offering notions of dusty soil, spice box, beef jerky and garrigue with a core of mulberries, plum preserves and white pepper plus a waft of potpourri. Medium to full-bodied, it has a rock-solid, chewy frame with background freshness and loads of savory layers, finishing on a compelling mineral note.
Beef, black cherry, Marmite – dense and juicy and really substantial. If the Kobler Family Vineyard cuvée is their St-Joseph, then the Obsidian is their Hermitage! Impressive. (RH)
The 2012 Syrah Obsidian Vineyard is one of the more intense, savory wines in the range. Chalk, smoke, herbs, dried stone fruits and wild flowers add nuance, but the fruit never seems to fully emerge. Overall, the Obsidian feels a bit compact and lacking in mid-palate depth. This is a decidedly soft vintage for the Obsidian, with fewer of the Knights Valley signatures that are typically found. (AG)