2006 Penfolds Shiraz RWT

Deep ruby with a bright rim. Rich cherry compote, blueberry and fruitcake aromas are complicated by sexy Asian spices and flowers. Plush black raspberry and cherry-cola flavors are given a refreshingly bitter edge by notes of rhubarb and cracked pepper, picking up silky tannins on the back end. Seductively sweet but focused, with strong finishing minerality and lingering cherry/berry character.

RWT stood for Red Wine Trail initially. The fruit for this is usually from the northern part of Barossa Valley around Kalimna where so many of the oldest vines are grown. Mostly bought in from such growers as Gersch and Gallasch. Gago describes the fruit as 'up to Grange level but different – less pruney, less liquorice, more blueberry'. The vines are 50-100 years old. All French oaked Shiraz. 'We aim for 13-13.5% alcohol – I don't like this 14.4%. I haven't used a refractometer in 15 years.' Made in 10 ton closed fermenters at Nurioopta. Massive port-like colour. Firm. French, dry and sophisticated, sleek and polished. Salon stuff – really quite European. SO different from most Barossa Shirazes! So much more polished in texture, with leather notes. (JR)

The 2006 RWT Shiraz was aged for 14 months in 70% new French oak hogsheads. The winery describes its style as opulent and fleshy compared to Grange-s muscular and assertive personality. Opaque purple in color, it offers aromas of Asian spices, beef juice, toast, blueberry, and licorice. Rich, fleshy, and round, it has plenty of underlying tannin, impeccable balance, and a long, pure finish. It will deliver prime drinking from 2014 to 2030. Jay Miller, The Wine Advocate, Dec 2009