2006 San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo

The 2006 Percarlo is one of the all-time legendary wines from San Giusto. Everything is in the right place. Firm yet wonderfully refined tannins support an intense core of fruit. The 2006 possesses dazzling richness and intensity, all supported by its considerable structural heft. Layers of black cherries, licorice and spices wrap around the muscular, potent finish. This is an absolutely breathtaking showing from the 2006, in my view the greatest Percarlo and easily one of the finest wines of this historic Tuscan harvest. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. This complete vertical of Percarlo left me speechless. Brothers Luca and Francesco Martini di Cigala showed me every vintage of Percarlo, back to the inaugural 1983, a wine that has now run its full course. I was deeply struck by the consistency of the wines from year to year, and even more importantly, by the great showing of a number of wines from long forgotten vintages, proving yet again the importance of choosing producer over vintage. Percarlo started off as a selection of the estate’s best vineyards. In 2001 the Cigalas sharpened their approach by focusing on what is now literally a bunch by bunch selection across all of the fruit that comes into the winery, an approach they favor because of the huge inconsistency Sangiovese can often show from vine to vine, and even within the same cluster. I also tasted a few vintages of the Chianti Classico Le Baroncole, the top Sangiovese bottling made in vintages not deemed suitable for Percarlo. Readers who want to learn more about San Giusto and Percarlo may want to take a look at my recent video interview with proprietor Luca Martini di Cigala. San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo Key Points: 1. 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s best vineyards in Gaiole 2. A powerful, intense expression of Sangiovese 3. Remarkably consistent, even in lesser years 4. Aging potential: 20+ years

The estate's flagship 2006 Percarlo (Sangiovese) is big, dark and powerful. Still very much tightly wound, the wine gradually opens up, revealing layers of ripe dark fruit, minerals, menthol and spices, all of which are supported by firm, yet elegant tannins. There is breathtaking clarity, finesse and freshness in the glass. The oak is beautifully integrated, though, and there is little doubt this will turn into a magical bottle somewhere down the line. It looks like the estate has made a wise choice in giving Percarlo an extra year in bottle prior to release as the 2006 is imposing and will require quite a bit of time before it enters its prime window of drinkability. While that time does not appear to be on the horizon, readers who can find the 2006 Percarlo will not want to hesitate, as it is magical.

The 2006 Percarlo is one of the all-time legendary wines from San Giusto. Everything is in the right place. Firm yet wonderfully refined tannins support an intense core of fruit. The 2006 possesses dazzling richness and intensity, all supported by its considerable structural heft. Layers of black cherries, licorice and spices wrap around the muscular, potent finish. This is an absolutely breathtaking showing from the 2006, in my view the greatest Percarlo and easily one of the finest wines of this historic Tuscan harvest. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Jun 2012, www.robertparker.com