2004 Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva

I revisited the 2004 Prado Enea Gran Reserva, as they hold small quantities of older vintages that are sold mostly to restaurants. I was really surprised by the slow development of this vintage in bottle, which is still young and with an incredible aging potential. The aromas are only starting to develop some tertiary characteristics while still showing a fruit side, and the spices are slowly increasing but the pace is really slow. The palate has concentration and depth, clean and focused flavors and great length, with outstanding overall balance and harmony. I think this is a more classical vintage than the 2005 I ended up tasting next to it, which can be a little more modern. At that time, they were producing some 150,000 bottles of Prado Enea.

80% Tempranillo, 7% Garnacha, 7% Mazuelo and 6% Graciano. Vines are on average 40-years-old, planted on clay, calcareous and alluvial soils with a planting density of 4,000 vines/ha and average yield of 30 – 35 hl/ha. In 2004, the grapes were harvested by hand from 30 September. Fermented in oak vats with no temperature control or added yeasts – with regular cap-punching and macerated for 20 days. Aged for 36 months in American 225-litre oak barrels and in bottle for a further 36 months. Winemakers Jorge and Isaac Muga. TA 5.09 g/l, pH 3.45, RS 2.4 g/l. Intense and complex with only the merest hint of hamster cages letting it down. Maybe a tad too concentrated and extreme for me. Now anyway. (JR)

(80% tempranillo, with garnacha, mazuelo and graciano): Dark ruby. An intensely perfumed nose displays cherry-cola, cassis, licorice and woodsmoke, with a sexy floral quality and very good focus. Juicy, penetrating dark fruit flavors are given spine by tangy acidity and pick up bitter chocolate and spicecake nuances with air. Supple tannins add shape to the very long, sappy, smoke-accented finish. This is still a baby.