1978 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Côte-Rôtie Les Jumelles

14 months in 3- and 4-year-old barrels. 500 c/s made. All négoce fruit at the time. 5% Viognier. This wine was poured just before tasting, unlike the others, which had been opened an hour or so before. Bricky colour. Initial and striking impression of strong sweet spice on the nose and a touch of char as if it has just been in new oak. Though this changes over time to become more like black olive. Youthful and quite fresh though showing its age, a little cedary/leafy on the mid palate. Not lean. Quite juicy. Surprisingly alive and well and held up better in the glass than I had expected. (JH)