2018 Alpha Estate Xinomavro VV Reserve Barba Yiannis Vineyard

Full bottle 1,646 g. From the Barba Yannis vineyard planted in 1919. Bush vines, ungrafted. Sandy clay loamy soil, over limestone conglomerates. Manual harvesting 29 September. Destemming, light crushing, cold soak, alcoholic fermentation by indigenous flora isolated from the specific block, at gradually increasing temperatures. Kept on lees for 24 months with regular stirring. Ageing: 24 months in new Allier–Jupilles French oak casks, medium grain, white toasted and 12 months in bottle before release. No treatment or filtration before bottling. TA 6.75 g/l, pH 3.26, RS 1.4 g/l. Lightish cherry/garnet. There's a family likeness compared with the Hedgehog Xinomavro but this is more concentrated. More impressive, less immediately charming. Fabulous aroma that is pure Xinomavro with some bottle age: tangy sour cherry, dried tomato, dried cherry and a hint of leather. Marked, very very fine tannins, almost chalky in the fine grain, that highlight the freshness that comes from the acidity. This is definitely not a wine for anyone looking for sweet and fruity but it has great potential for long ageing into something even more complex and elegant. Impressive length and purity without undue oak influence despite the new oak – though I am sure the oxygenation that comes with barrel-ageing has refined the tannins. I usually prefer this to Alpha's flagship SMX for its purity and sheer class as an expression of Xinomavro from this region. (JH)

The 2018 Xinomavro Ecosystem Reserve Vielles Vignes Barba Yannis Single Block was aged for 24 months in new French barriques and comes in at 13.82% alcohol. The "old vines" references ungrafted bush vines from 1919. One of the best red deals in Greece on a consistent basis, this is always distinguished for modest money. The winery has more expensive wines, but I'm not sure it has better ones in most years. As with the Alpha One, also reviewed, this has a lot of oak in the description but handles it surprisingly well. Also like the Alpha One, it won't exactly be the best choice for oak-a-phobes. Still, the fruit and structure are in charge here, not the wood. It is hardly offensive. It has more grip on the finish than the Hedgehog Xinomavro (if you're wondering why to trade up), and it feels fuller in the mouth, even though it is no riper. I wasn't sure this would be on par with last year's, but it evolved well and should have plenty of room for improvement in the cellar. It could use a year or three in the cellar to become more complex and harmonious, but it is approachable now. It should then age well, for another 15 years or so, give or take. Xinomavro doesn't die easily, so that may be conservative. It's another winner in this fine brand.