1990 Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana

The 1990 Barolo Pajana is the first wine Clerico produced from this vineyard. It is also one of the most positive surprises in my recent tastings of the vintage. In 1990 Clerico made this Barolo using only the old portions of the vineyard, and that may be the reason the wine has aged so beautifully. Richer, rounder and softer than the Ciabot Mentin Ginestra, the 1990 Pajana is just superb in a sumptuous, enveloping expression of ripe, dark fruit. Tobacco, cedar, sweet spices, roasted coffee beans and plums are just some of the nuances that emerge from this full-bodied, intense Barolo. Clerico’s 1990 Barolo Pajana is a gem! Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. This stunning set of wines shows how far ahead of the pack Domenico Clerico was 20 years ago. Then again, Clerico has the privilege of working with some of the very finest vineyards in the world. Winemaking was decidedly rustic at the time, as these wines were fermented in tanks outside Clerico’s house, the site of his current cellar. No matter, the wines are splendid, even today. The 1989 and 1990 Ciabot Mentin Ginestra were aged in 700-liter French oak barrels, while the 1990 Pajana is the first Barolo Clerico aged in the smaller 225-liter barrels he now uses for all of his Barolos.