2005 Saxum James Berry Vineyard Bone Rock

(93% syrah and 7% grenache) Glass-staining purple. Exotic boysenberry, kirsch and candied violet aromas are positively intoxicating, expanding with air and picking up a wild, head shop-like character. Deep, chewy and sweet, offering palate-coating dark berry liqueur flavors and urgent mineral lift. It's remarkable for a wine to possess such weight and sweetness while maintaining focus-even elegance. Finishes with outstanding breadth and cling, leaving flowers and boysenberry in its wake. "This is the last one we'll release this year," owner/winemaker Justin Smith told me, also noting that he's not afraid to put syrah into a high percentage of new oak, depending on the vintage, since "it's a variety that can easily handle it."