2017 Catena Zapata White Stones Chardonnay Adrianna Vineyard

I tasted two vintages of the top whites, 2017 and 2018, and the wines perfectly show the conditions of each of the vintages, which were very different. Harvested very early to compensate the low yields and the warm end of the ripening season, the 2017 White Stones Chardonnay is a tad riper than the 2018, but it's a lot subtler and less ripe than I'd have expected from a warm year like 2017, like this part of the Adrianna vineyard is able to cushion the effect of the temperatures. The palate combines great intensity and pungent minerality, which is a texture and mouthfeel rather than a flavor. This has a contained 12.9% alcohol and very good freshness. 6,600 bottles were filled in July 2018.

Bright light yellow. Penetrating, multifaceted aromas of lime zest, stone fruits, spring flowers, spearmint and baking spices, plus an element of leesy complexity. Wonderfully concentrated, intense and dry, with its white peach, menthol and mineral flavors conveying a powerful tactile impression of extract. This urgent Chardonnay boasts lovely creamy richness but with its bracing, Riesling-like acidity (7.9 grams per liter!) and powerful minerality, it's like chewing on a rock today. This remarkably complex, ageworthy Chardonnay was made from three separate picks over a period of two weeks, according to winemaking director Vigil. (12.9% alcohol)

Aromas of cooked pears, apples, lemons and crushed stones. Salty, too. Full and deep with a solid core of fruit and a bright and citric finish. Very minerally and bright. Starts off slowly and then takes off. Drink or hold.