2021 Keller Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
The aromas here are enticing and boldly projected: iris, moss, basil and pit-inflected white peach. On the palate, there is gum-coating concentration and a satiny, rich texture, but at the same time, there's bright animation thanks to the tangy freshness of white peach, now enhanced by lime. There’s also a paradoxical perception of density (what Keller would term “inner density”) allied to levity. Pepper and chalk dust add to the mouth-shaking vibrancy of the finish, but without overshadowing the wine’s richness of fruit or the somehow cooling aspect of herbs and bittersweet floral perfume. I don’t believe I’ve tasted a more alluring edition of Kirchspiel, and this one’s definitely more open and expressive today than Keller’s other chalk-informed Grosse Gewächse of this vintage.
Critic scores
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
The super-fine apricot fruit is married to an uplifting acidity that powers this remarkable dry riesling across the palate at a very brisk clip. So much energy and salty minerality, but also seriously chalky foundations. Excellent aging potential. Drink or hold.
Cask sample. More spicy than usual. More richly mineral – stony veering to oily. Intense aroma and flavour, not as floral and exotic as the Kirchspiel Kabinett but with many aromatic layers of citrus and spicy, deep minerality. Powerful, complex and intense. Rich but still with the finesse and ultimate citrus freshness that, for me, characterises Kirchspiel. Deliciously persistent. (JH)