1999 Karlsmuhle Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Spätlese

The first bottle I tasted betrayed a youthful whiff of sulfur that not uncommon in Karlsmuhle wines, but a second bottle was aromatically crystal-clear, with intense blackcurrant, melon and honey notes. Lush and sweet in the mouth, it's quite sweet and exudes tropical fruit notes along with the aforementioned cassis and melon. For all that sweetness, there is pungent cinnamon spiciness, firm slate and refreshing mineral salts in the long finish. I think this will shape up very nicely with a bit of time. Potential 1 star. To illustrate the direction in which these wines were headed, a Lorenzhofer Auslese, the least ripe of Geiben's '99 Auslesen, smelled of apple jelly and honey; covered the palate with rich, expansive tropical fruit, honey and brown spices; then left behind a too-heavy load of sweetness.