2006 Ramey Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
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(15.4% alcohol; from what Ramey described as a problematic vintage featuring heat waves, rain and rot; 6.2 grams per liter acidity; 74% new oak): Deep yellow-gold. Fully evolved nose offers scents of honey, marzipan and sweet nuts (this was the third bottle Ramey opened and the least evolved of the three). Fat, sweet truffle and toffee flavors are complemented by botrytis suggestions of orange and honey. A bit aggressive on the end and past its peak.
Critic scores
Robert Parker
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
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Yellow-gold. Powerful aromas of orange peel, pear, truffle and floral honey, with slow-building minerality adding verve. Deep, spicy, impressively pure orchard fruit and citrus flavors pick up a bitter quinine quality on the back end. Brighter and more vivacious than the Hudson today, with excellent finishing clarity and mineral snap.
My favorite of this trio is the 2006 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard. It reveals gorgeous acidity, more tropical fruit, nectarine, and orange blossom characteristics, a greenish hue to its color (always a good sign), and long, full-bodied flavors. David Ramey’s Healdsburg operation is becoming bigger and bigger, as evidenced by his 60,000-case production in both 2006 and 2007. However, quality continues to be exciting, offering a broad array of Chardonnays, Cabernet Sauvignons, and more recently, a handful of Syrahs. The entry level Chardonnays include three generic appellations, Carneros, Russian River, and Sonoma Coast. All three need to be consumed sooner rather than later. The three single vineyard Chardonnays are all from top sites, the Hudson and Hyde vineyards in Carneros, and the Russian River’s Ritchie Vineyard. Production is much smaller for these cuvees, from just under 1,400 cases for the Hudson to over 2,500 cases for the Hyde. Tel. (707) 433-0870; Fax (707) 433-0871